Lost City Trek: Day 3

No doubt last night's wine promoted a great night of sleep. We started waking up around 06h for eggs, bread, and coffee. On the trail before 07h15 I was relieved to find today somewhat cooler than the previous days. Arthur and I even began wearing our shirts. Unfortunately that didn't last of course. Before long we were stripped down and generating torrents of sweat. This was supposed to be the hard day with 9 river fordings (same river each time) and a few steep sections - notable the last which is up the stairs to and through the Lost City.

The first river crossing was within 20 minutes of hitting the trail. It was thigh deep and not much of a problem. Following that we hiked steeply in the recently arrived heat wishing for the river. We knew it wouldn't appear again for hours however. With my light pack I again put the shoulder straps around my upper arms instead so the pack would only be touching me at the hips. Anything helps and this had the benefit of keeping things in the pack from becoming wet. We carried on for several hours and passed two indigenous outposts of two building each were we took brief rests. The we were at the river where we took a nice long rest and had some pinapple.

The next section was real fun. We were to spend the next hour in and around the river. Normally we all take our footwear on and off before wading acrosss (even me with my water shoes because I don't like walking in wet foam for hours) but this section was different. Because we had 8 more immersions in such a short time everyone kept there footwear on which greatly speeded our progress. We walked along and through the river to our lunch spot. Here I just want to say that my Addidis water shoes are excellent for this sort of thing. They are so much more secure on slick rocks than bare or sandled feet and they offer a lot more protection for the toes and sides of the foot. Anyway it was loads of fun as you can guess and the cold water kept our tempuratures down.

Lunch was surprisingly good bologna sandwiches seasoned by our hunger. We dined in the river bed between a waterfall and an ancient Tayrona staircase ascending into the forest directly to the Lost City. The other groups were already here having passed us very early in the day. We got to see them begin the climb up the stone steps. Then it was our turn to cross the water the final time.

Arthur, Miriam, and I took the lead and quickly left the others behind. Miriam and I arrived at the first set of terraces behind the Frenchman probably 30 minutes after we started. I don't know how far we ascended but it was continuously steep and we were moving fast. Also the Tayrona had tiny feet. The narrow stairs would accept only the ball of my foot.

The Lost City is impressive. The wooden buildings are long gone but beautiful terraces and pathways remain very well preserved if mossy. Very little of the city is actually uncovered. The part that has been reclaimed from the thick vegitation is the city center. It is built along a ridge that ascends steeply so it is long and strung out. Stairways disappear into the lush foliage on either side. Another half hour ambling takes us through the ceremonial center and to our accomodations. There are two structures built in the native style on the terraces for caretakers and researchers but our lodging is a 3 story open structure further on.

The afternoon was cloudier and threatened rain but the 3 of us wanted to do a little more exploring of some of the less travelled paths nearby. We found some moderned ruined structures and Miriam took a picture of Arthur peeing. We returned just as the drizzle began.